A trip to Mewar: land of bravery, beauty, bhakti, sacrifice & loyalty!

  It was a much needed break, at least we thought so! And we were looking forward to it. Initially we were apprehensive as our plans to go to Udaipur had fizzled out twice earlier and converted into Pachmarhi trip once. However, as time closed in, things kept on becoming smoother and omens were good!
We reached in morning and were fresh that gave us whole day for activities. From the train I could see that the city was surrounded by hills on all side. What I was seeing was Girwa valley! We reached the land of most celebrated Raputs of the country- Mewar! It has been the kings of Mewar who are considered to be the epitome of the spirit of freedom and have been the icon of hindu resistance against invading muslim rulers. The kings who led their forces from the front riding on horses against their enemies who rode on elephants with sepoys in front to fight and protect them. Paintings of battle of Haldighati at City Palace beautifully depicted this. These paintings are remarkable for various reasons. One, the magnitude with which they depict the battle, second, how they animate the sequence of events that happened and third, what looked very strange to me! The horses were shown wearing elephant like trunks.

Statue of Chetak at City Palace, Udaipur!

I wondered what kind of a deceit tactic that was! Rajputs of Mewar under Rana Pratap had developed art of Guerilla warfare that needed various tricks to outsmart the enemy. Elephants in Mughal forces used to wield swords in their trunks. May be horses with trunks were mistaken to be baby elephants by adult elephants thus preventing them from attacking the horses! But then wouldn't a white trunk have been more deceptive?? I think the nearest real world animal would be a Tapir!!

This trip added another dimension to my understanding of Rajasthan. My earlier trips had been to Jaipur and I thought that is what Rajasthan is! They glorified kings of Amer and Jaipur, the lineage of Man Singh. Then I visited Jodhpur in 2010, the region known as Marwar and Jaisalmer. Rajasthan has north-western desert region of Thar and south-eastern hilly region. Mewar lies in the hilly region. It has been ruled by Moris, Guhilots and Sisodias. It was the sisodia rulers who started using the title 'Rana' or 'Maharana'. Maharana Hamir Singh, who took the kingdom back from the governor of Allauddin Khilji was the first to use the title of Maharana.

Other notable Mewar king has been Maharana Kumbha who built the kumbhalgarh fort. The fort that is located 1100 meters above sea levels in the Aravalli Ranges and is said to have never been conquered. Its 36 km strong wall is said to be second longest in world after Great Wall of China. This fort was used as a safe haven for the Mewar rulers in times of attack. It separates Mewar from Marwar. In fact, this fort is associated with the story of Panna Dhai, the lady who is considered to be sacrifice personified. After killing son of Rana Sanga, Banvir Singh wanted to kill his younger son Udai Singh II to usurp the throne. However, Panna Dhai, in order to protect the young prince, just in the nick of time, got Udai singh smuggled out of the palace and placed her own son in his place whom Banvir Singh brutally murdered. Later Panna Dhai took Udai singh to the safe Kumbhalgrah and after few years helped Udai Singh II regain his throne by helping him establish the identity and disappeared for ever. 

Banvir Singh killing son of Panna Dhai in place of Udai Singh

Kumbhalgarh has become the place of resorts now for people who want to spend vacation time. The light and sound show is said to be the best but to see that one must stay around Kumbhalgarh as it becomes unsafe to travel after dark. It takes around 3 hrs to reach Udaipur by car. I wonder how much time it took for Udai Singh II to reach and establish the new capital of Mewar from Kumbhalgarh to Udaipur after Chittor was taken.

The traditional capital of Mewar was Chittor and the fort known as Chittorgarh fort. It is around 120 kms from Udaipur. We could not visit it as it needed another day in in the itinerary, however we learnt about it from the Haldighati museum and city palace in Udaipur.

It is not known that who built the chittorgarh fort. Bappa Rawal, the founder of Mewar kingdom, is said to have established it as his capital in 8th century AD . Chittorgarh represents the glory of Mewar. It was here that rani padmini committed Jauhar after it was seiged by Allauddin khilji. Jauhar again happened in this fort twice, by Rani Karnawati et al on being captured by Ahmed Shah of Gujarat and again on being seiged by Akbar. Rana Pratap reclaimed all of the Mewar from Akbar except Chittorgarh fort and died with this unfulfilled wish. Chittor has represented the heroism of Mewar whether it was Rana Sanga fighting Babur or Rana Pratap fighting Akbar. The romanticism of Chittor is added by being associated with Meera. She is believed to have been married here and resisted all the brutality after the death of her husband due to her bhakti for Lord Krishna. 

Thinking that so many of the most glorious stories of Indian history and culture emanate from this small region of the country, Rani padmini, Meera Bai, Panna Dhai, Rana Pratap.....makes me wonder!!

Udaipur was made capital as Chittor remained under seige, by Udai singh II and continued to rise in prominence. Artifical lakes, huge in size were created; Pichola, Fateh Sagar, Raj Samand...... over time so much so that it became a city of lakes in the desert state of Rajasthan, but as I have mentioned earlier, it is the hilly area rather the core desert area of the state. Elaborate Palaces and Havellis occupy the land around and in the lakes and then beautiful gardens were developed. Lakes, palaces and garden make udaipur serene, grand and beautiful. What pleases the eye is that it is relatively clean. Udai Vilas, palace converted into hotel is said to be one of the most expensive and plush hotels of India.

Boat ride in lake Pichola at Sunset is the highlight of Udaipur trip as one's eyes savour the beautiful palaces all around which light up as the sun sets. We visited it when moon was also in it's full bloom. Very pleasing experience it was!!

Before moving on I would like to mention about horses of Mewar. Mewar developed their own breed known as Mewari. They are known for their in-turned ears that are capable of turning 180 degrees. Ranas used their horses against Mughal elephants. These horses lost their sheen during british times due to neglect and breeding of imported horses. 'Chetak' a legendary horse from Mewar epitomizing loyalty was, however, a kathiawari breed! Whatever breed it was, it has etched a golden letter history for horses for all-time.

Udaipur is one capital that has been totally developed by its rulers. It might have been like any other hilly area of the region prior to that and not endowed with much natural beauty otherwise. 'Saheliyon ki Bari' is one great example. The Ranas had already developed the huge Fateh Sagar Lake. It is said that Rana Sangram Singh's wife brought 48 maidens with her in dowry. The Rana built a garden with fountains. He built a pond with where the queen with all her friends could frolic in water. Five domes with fountains coming out of birds beaks were built. There was no electricity at that time and some physics was used to create these fountains. The ponds were built at a lower altitude that fateh Sagar lake and channels were drawn from the lake to the fountains with valves placed to control the water-flow. I think it's the oldest water park I have seen. At the rear is a beautiful lotus pond surrounded by elephant statue fountains on all sides. One wonders how was the channel for fountain made through  the monoliths' trunks. On the left is a section called 'Saavan-bhadon' that gives a feel of perpetual rain. When we entered this section the breeze was unusually cool. In fact I was surprised to see so many of plants, that need perennial water,  growing there! The compound also has a 200 years old bougainvillea tree. It's a very picturesque place and we loved relaxing and spending time here. Easily the best garden of the city. It gives an insight into the luxury enjoyed by erstwhile princesses when there were no waterparks!

At Saheliyon Ki Bari

City Palace Zoom in from Karni Mata Temple

Overview of City Palace

City Palace as viewed from Lake Pichola

City Palace is the emblem of the city!The exteriors reminded me of Monaco. They were that clean!One goes through the palace looking at various exhibits narrating the royal history of Mewar. One can feel that it was used for residence till lately. There is a courtyard that is rented out for lavish functions. It has a very different feel compared to the City Palace of Jaipur. One feels it is real, something contemporary that has it's history.

Continued......

In our hospital there are many trees, wide in variety, in fact a treat for a plant enthusiast! And I now of at least one plant enthusiast in our hospital.He introduced me to some of the amazing plants in our campus. In fact, he has created a small nursery in the campus out of his own efforts. 

There is one type of tree that has fascinated me ever since I joined here. These are big trees, that shed their leaves completely by the winter end, that is not even a single leaf is found on them at that time, but the whole tree bears only red coloured flowers and then these fleshy flowers keep on falling till spring arrives and once they shed all flowers, new leaves arrive. It looks like a totally different tree. The flowers that fall initially are quite fleshy and so messy. It's a bane to park your car under this tree from Jan to March. Whenever I saw crushed flowers, I always wondered whether these can be used for making natural colours, or for food. I came to know that this tree is called 'Semal' or 'Shalmali' ( making me understand from where did the singer 'Shalmali Kholgade' got her name) (Can't help it but have fixation for origin of names!!) It's botanical name is Bombax ceiba. In fact it's fruit is used to make cotton and certain edible things like pickle. It is said to have medicinal value for hemoptysis. I wonder whether I can collect the thousands of flowers that fall in my hospital to make some remedy for hemoptysis - an indigenous solution!! I tend to generalize things and thought that "Oh! so it belongs to cotton family!" but when I checked, I found cotton is Gossypium, oh ya ya, I could recollect!

A Semal tree in bloom in Delhi

On our way from Udaipur to Mount Abu and also on our way to Haldighati I saw trees that looked like Semal. They had only flowers with no leaves. These flowers were the colour of flame and more beautiful than Semal flowers. At places, where there were many trees in the forest, it looked as if there were flames in the forest. I asked my driver, "which tree is that?" He said, "That is Palash" "Oh Palash, my eyes widened!" I asked him to park the car so that I could have a closer look!

A Palash tree near Haldighati

A blooming Palash tree: resembles Semal

A Palash flower with the tree in backdrop!

A myriad of thoughts crossed my minds. My introduction to this flower was through the celebrated hindi poem 'Palash ke phool' or is it an Upanyas by Dr Saroj Vyas?? Though I do not know the intended reference there! I could not see Palash when I visited Plassey in Bengal. I recalled it is also called "Flame of forest",how apt!! I used to think that it is found predominantly in Bengal but I was wrong, I found it in the desert state of Rajasthan! Our driver told us that these flowers are collected and natural colours for holi are made, I thought' "Obviously I know!" Over a gap of 5 minutes I was again more knowledgeable than our driver! I told my kids, "it must be of the same family as Semal as they look so same and have so similar cycle" My confidence was growing. My kids said, "Papa, kuchh bhi!!" I tried to convince them regarding my great understanding and knowledge and inferences and .... so on! However, I failed to satisfy them, as usual!! I knew I had help. I resorted to "baba google!" My confidence got brutally 'dharashayi..ed' when I came to know that Palash is Butea monosperma belonging to a different family 'Fabacae'. While Palash tree wood is strong and used for timber, Semal wood is weak and can not be used for timber. Gum of Palash, called 'kamarkas' is used in food while the cotton from Semal is called 'Kopak'. I tried to regain my ground. Cotton and Semal both belong to Malvacae so I was right initially, some years back when I must have thought about the relation. Did I?? Must have..... . Then, both Shalmali or sumbul and Palash are common names. ( I know only one person each with the names Shalmali and Sumbul! !) Anyway! the whole thing led to such an 'izafa' in everyones botanical knowledge!! Kids were still not listening! They never do!!

We were going from Udaipur to Mount Abu on the day of Chhoti Holi. We were bit anxious, as we had heard about the notoriety on that day. We were also told that we would be crossing an area inhabited predominatly by 'Garasiya' tribe. Till then we had heard about the laurels of 'Bhils' who had helped Rana Pratap and achieved glory! The origin of Garasiya tribe is said to be in this region of 'Sirohi' of Abu region, where they live. They are rajputs. It is claimed that they descend from the Chauhan rajputs of Jalore, who were defeated by Allauddin Khilji. They probably married Bhils who were inhabitants of the area. We were told that they carry a hansiya or daranti (Sickle) like weapon which they hang on the back of their collar and attack to loot if required as they don't have means of earning. We saw the colourful dress that they wear. In fact, their Ghaghra or lehenga is made of pleats of different colours, popularly known as 'assi (80) kali ka ghaghra' meaning that is has 80 triangular strips of different colours.

A Photo of Garasiya girls on web

The Lok Kala Parishad gave us insight into tribes of Rajasthan. While we had become familiar with Bhils and Garasiyas, we knew about Meenas who are our colleagues. We also came to know about 'Gadhiya Lohars'. I had seen these people many times in my childhood. They were the 'banjaras', that I knew of. These people are blacksmiths who travel in groups in their carts, which are distinctly designed and decorated and in fact is the 'gadi' that gives them their name.

The 'Gadi' of Gadiya Lohars

We have seen them live by the roadside for years. They sell all kinds of iron tools. They are said to be rajput descendants of Maharana Pratap's Army.

Another nomadic rajput tribe is Sansi, usually people from civilized world take their name associated with crime.

Another tribe is Kanjar, again a term used as a derogatory remark especially in Punjab. Other tribes are Sahariyas and kathodi.

Mount Abu was almost a different trip!